The gap it leaves is very small (you will find it at around the 8 o’clock position) so be careful not to snag or damage the belt here. There is a small plastic tab that protrudes out of the case towards the black plastic wheel. Use your tweezers to place it around the motor spindle and around the other pulleys following the path in the photo below. (Edit: Sadly this company no longer appear to exist (at least online) so I’ve removed the out of date link to their site). Although it was thicker than the original it did appear to work OK. The belt arrived a couple of days after ordering. The company I bought the belt from (SignalsUK) was super helpful and based in the UK too. It was also only a fraction of a mm away from touching itself (ooerr) where it passes beneath the nearby brass pulley (see the photo below to see how tight it was). It did fit and work but was quite a tight fit around the black wheel where it nearly touches the side of the case. I couldn’t find one this thin at first so I bought a 1mm x 76mm belt. So basically you need to find a 0.6mm x 76mm belt. For belts most suppliers use the measurement of the diameter of the belt when laid out flat in a circle. It is also very thin – about 0.6mm thick. The belt fitted to this walkman has a square cross-section, not round or flat like many other belts. Avoid those cheap multi-packs you can pick up off Amazon and eBay from China – the quality of them is variable at best and the chances of getting one that actually fits correctly is next to zero. It took quite a lot of investigative work to locate a new belt that was an exact match for the original. See how the rubber belt is no longer taught and is just lying there looking lumpy and uneven Replacing the Belt (Take 1) This is a slightly different size to the next two so it should be easy to identify when you are putting things back together. Place it in safe place, preferably in a small container as the screw is incredibly small and easy to lose. Take your philips screwdriver and remove the first screw shown in the picture below.
It is held in place by 3 tiny screws and a clip that fits inside the case near the play button. Now you need to remove the backplate from the player to expose the belt. The first thing you need to do with your AIWA HS-PC202 is unclip the battery compartment as one of the screws you need to remove is hiding behind this. It’s quite a straightforward job as the player has been designed with the foresight that one day someone would need to change that belt! Getting Started with your AIWA HS-PC202 The only tools you need are some small watch-makers screwdrivers and a pair of tweezers.
Square section tapedeck driving belt how to#
This post will provide instructions on how to open up the AIWA HS-PC202 Mk 3 cassette player, and replace the belt. This was a sure sign that the belt had failed in some way which is very common on vintage cassette decks. Thankfully I could hear the motor run momentarily if I held the unit to my ear whilst pressing ‘play’. However it had been sat in storage for about 25 years so when I popped in some batteries and tried to play a tape – nothing happened! I could see the power LED light and hear a hiss from the headphones but the spindles didn’t turn. This Aiwa model is a quality bit of kit with the ability to play Chrome tapes, Dolby B & C noise reduction, auto-reverse and a super slim, attractive design. Now I’m fully aware that you can buy brand new ones off Amazon but these are pretty cheap and nasty affairs designed to cash in on nostalgia rather than offer a quality audio experience.
I recently bought a ‘New Old Stock’ AIWA HS-PC202 Mk 3 Personal Stereo off eBay as I just couldn’t resist the idea of unboxing a ‘new’ walkman in 2018.
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